There are a few reasons why you may get puffy roots, but most likely it is because of the reasons described below:
#1: The Hair Is Not Wet Enough:
The entire section of hair- root to tip- should be wet enough to cling to the roller in order to have the silky-smooth results that you desire. If the hair is not wet enough when it is being rolled, then the resulting curls will be mal formed, frizzy, and the roots will be puffy. I relax every 12-16 weeks, and even when it is time for a touch up, I can get the entirety of my hair silky-smooth. You can use water alone or diluted setting lotion to ensure that your hair is properly saturated.
#2: Not Enough Tension:
Once the hair is sufficiently wet (not under saturated or over saturated), then roll the hair while using tension (but not force). In the past, I did not secure the ends of the hair to the roller properly, so I could not get the proper amount of tension to the hair on the roller. The results were puffiness and frizz just about everywhere.
#3: Poor Roller Placement:
There are two ways to roll the hair and three angle placements. First, the hair can be rolled over the roller, or under the roller. Roll the hair under if you want smoot flat results and roll the hair over if you want more body.
Then, there are three roller placements that you can use to create varying amounts of body in the hair.
Base: the area of the scalp that is occupied by a roller.
Base size: is determined by the size of the roller being used.
Hair is rolled at a 45angle. If you over-direct the hair on the roller, then this will produce the most amount of body at the root of the hair. If you want smooth roots if you have a lot of new growth then under-direct your hair onto the roller (roll the hair under the roller) at a 45 degree angle and the roller will land on base. This will keep you roots as smooth as possible.
On Base Roller Placement Video
½ Off Base:
Hair is rolled at a 90angle. This will produce an average amount of body at the root when the hair is over-directed onto the roller. When I look at roller setting videos where the vlogger’s results come out puffy at the root, it is usually because they roll their hair this way. If you have thin hair, then rolling your hair like this will make the hair appear more full. But, if you have thick hair, watch out! You may be asking for puffy roots and fly away hair.
Hair is rolled at a 110angle. The only time I roll my hair like this is if I want to make a mess lol… Having hair off of the base of the roller is asking for disaster if you have Afro textured hair.